The Namib Desert with its high red dunes towering over the hardened white crust and sun-blackened trees of Dead Vlei beneath, was just breath taking. Climbing the Sossusvlei dunes in 40 degree heat at 8 o’clock in the morning was testing to say the least, but worth it to see the view from the top and great fun running down!

Swakopmund is a picturesque coastal town with quirky shops, lovely restaurants and a friendly atmosphere. The cooler temperatures, in comparison with the interior, are a welcome relief in the summer months and make it an ideal stop between the north and south. There are many excursions available in the surrounding area and a personal favourite was the catamaran cruise and Sandwich Harbour combination. The cruise gives you a fantastic look at marine life with seal colonies, birds, and, if you lucky, heavyside dolphins or even whales (I was not so lucky on the latter). This is followed by a 4×4 adventure south along the beach and dunes of this stunning wild coastline to the remote ‘harbour’ estuary.

Inland and north from Swakopmund is the vast wilderness area known as Damaraland. On the southern edge of this region are the beautiful Erongo Mountains, where I tested some of my 4×4 driving skills just getting to the lodge set amongst the rocky boulders. From here I headed north past the busier Twyfelfontein region to reach the exclusive Palmwag and Etendeka Concessions, both of which are good for seeing desert elephant and rhino, and offer some wonderful walking. I then set off on a private guided camping tour that took me further north into the really wild north-west, known as Kaokoland, ‘wild camping’ on the banks of the Hoanib and Hoarasib rivers. This was an unforgettable experience – food cooked over the open fire, the incredible night sky, desert elephants, scorpions and snakes! I really was lost for words, the change in scenery in one day was like nothing else I had encountered, from river gorge to open rolling plateau, through jagged mountains to end at a lush green river oasis!

Working my way back to ‘reality’, Etosha National Park was next, well known for its great game-viewing especially around the waterholes. Unfortunately for me, it has just rained, so my day driving through the park was uneventful. This is the main reason that the area is best visited in the dry months from May to October!

My last night was spent at Okonjima, home to the Africat Foundation, where I spent an exciting afternoon tracking leopard. The following morning we concentrated on seeing cheetah and wild dog. The foundation has done fantastic work for the rehabilitation of these big cats (and now dogs), and gives you a great opportunity to see these elusive animals in as natural an environment as possible.

We have always felt that Namibia is best as a self-drive destination. I have been fortunate enough to fly and now drive through the country and both experiences were fantastic. I do think that driving gives you a more complete experience and ‘feel’ for the destination and if you like adventure and the excitement of self-driving, then Namibia should certainly live up to all expectations!

I was standing at a spot in the far north-eastern Kruger National Park, gazing out over the wide river bed of the mighty Limpopo River. So this is the infamous Crooks Corner, with Mozambique on the opposite bank and Zimbabwe just a few kilometres to the north. Crooks Corner was so-called as it offered smugglers, poachers and general crooks of the time the chance to jump ship across the border to Mozambique or Zimbabwe at a moment’s notice to avoid South African jurisdiction. I bet it was interesting when the Limpopo was in flood, I thought, but let’s not dwell on realities. Crooks Corner may not have been a great place for innocent folk to hang out, but it does drum up an evocative image of African exploration and frontier life in the ‘Wild North-East’.

The most northerly section of the Kruger National Park is now a designated private concession, called Makuleke, managed principally by Wilderness Safaris who run the lovely Pafuri Camp on the Luvuvhu River. The northern Kruger is historically not thought to have as plentiful big game as the southern Kruger, which to be honest is true. However, the game-viewing is better and more varied than I expected, and guests I joined on game drives had seen the big five in their 3 day visit!

However, the Pafuri region is known for its diverse and spectacular scenery. I was not allowed nearly enough time to soak up the incredible scenery of Lanner Gorge, where the Luvuvhu has cut a winding gorge through the sandstone mountains, or to explore the spectacular Fever Tree Forest close to Crooks Corner which stretches further and wider than any other Fever Tree grove I have seen. Then there are the river courses – the Luvuvhu and Limpopo, both of which offer beautiful riverine drives where the game is especially plentiful and the birdlife spectacular.

For those looking for an adventure on foot, Pafuri is one of the best places in South Africa to consider. Wilderness Safaris offer a fantastic  3 day walking  trail which allows you to appreciate the region from a different experience, perhaps exploring some areas that are difficult to access by vehicle.

I found the Pafuri region a refreshing change from the rather predictable (to me!) private game reserves further south and would highly recommend it to anyone seeking a more in depth, wild and remote Kruger Park experience.

Zanzibar is one option which combines easily with a safari in either Kenya or Tanzania. It is a destination which evokes images of endless white beaches, exotic spice farms and architecture in Stonetown which reflects the various cultures which have held sway over the island. So whether you wish to ‘flop on a beach’ or be more active and soak up the atmosphere of this historic island, Zanzibar is both convenient and rewarding.

The island has seen a lot of development over past years and now offers a wide variety of different accommodation styles from owner run guest houses and small hotels, such as Echo Beach Hotel, Shooting Star, Unguja Lodge and the ever popular Pongwe Beach Hotel, through the established mid-range hotels such as Breezes Beach Club, Matemwe Lodge and Ras Nungwi Beach Hotel, to the first class opulence offered by the Palms, Baraza and Kilindi, and the two new kids on the block – The Residence Zanzibar and Essque Zalu.

Every day does not have to be spent on the beach however. Zanzibar offers world class diving and snorkelling, dolphin watching tours, spice farm tours, visits to Jozani Forest in search of the rare red colobus monkey and tours of the capital, Stonetown.

Close to Zanzibar are also several exotic island hideaways. Mnemba Island (off the north-east coast) is absurdly wonderful with a price tag to match, whilst Chumbe Island (off the south-west coast) offers a more down to earth ‘eco-stay’ with fantastic snorkelling.

All in all, Zanzibar has much to offer and is still less busy, more culturally interesting and a rather ‘more sleepy’ beach destination than the well known coastal resorts of Kenya.

For incredible value for money, and an itinerary that really gives you the best of both ‘bush and beach’, consider combining the outstanding Selous Game Reserve with one of Zanzibar’s affordable beach lodges. For anyone keen on maximising their opportunities on safari, the wonderfully remote Ruaha National Park can also be included. Selous, Ruaha and Zanzibar……….now that is a fantastic combination of experiences!

Populations of mountain gorilla now number less than 500 in Uganda and around 300 in Rwanda, and whilst it hasn’t been possible to determine the extent of the endangered golden monkey population, they face the same threats as the gorillas, including snares set for small antelope, human encroachment and people entering their habitat to collect wood. A trip to either country also offers the opportunity to view charismatic chimpanzees and other primates such as the rather sad looking, but easily recognisable black and white colobus monkey.

Our journey started in bustling Kampala and a seven hour drive took us to Kyambura Gorge, close to Queen Elizabeth National Park. A stay in this area will most certainly include game drives in the QENP, and a boat cruise on the Kazingo Channel, a good opportunity for viewing elephants and varied birdlife. However, the attraction for primate lovers in this area are the chimpanzees in the gorge.

Deforestation has meant that the usual corridors for chimpanzee movement have disappeared but one family remains and continues to survive within the Kyambura.

After a steep descent into the gorge, the hiking through the forest is lovely, enjoying the scenery and criss-crossing the river by walkways and rafts, all the time looking and listening for signs of the chimpanzees. We trekked for four and a half hours and didn’t see one chimp which just goes to show that that this is truly wild trekking and certainly in the case of Kyambura, where the success rate is between, 40 and 60%, there are never any guarantees!!

Having limbered up with the chimp trek, next stop was the aptly named Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, home to Uganda’s mountain gorillas. At an altitude of well over 2000 metres, trekking in Bwindi is done at a slow pace, but it remains very challenging.

Our starting point was a 45 minute drive from the park HQ in the village of Buhoma and having teamed up with our porters, we began to walk. After an initial ascent through cultivated lands, we entered into the cool of the forest and the vegetation closed around us. A fallen tree blocked our way, so a detour was made, climbing over roots and squeezing between entangled vines with our porters supporting and encouraging us all the time.

Finally, word came through that the gorillas had been found and we saw fleeting movement as they disappeared down into the valley. So, we followed – sliding down the steep slope using any vegetation we could to keep us steady until we reached the bottom and suddenly, there they were.

For an hour we stayed with them, moving as they moved and eventually sitting down to observe as they settled down to eat. What incredible animals they are, displaying such patience as they allowed us to watch their interaction and play, but all too soon, the hour, which is strictly monitored, was up and we began the long trek home. Somehow our steps were much lighter.

As soon as you cross the border into Rwanda, you notice differences – the first one being the amount of people. Rwanda has a population of just over 11 million and sometimes it feels like they are all out on the streets at the same time, walking or cycling or on the back of the numerous moto taxis.

Gorilla trekking in Rwanda takes place in the beautiful Parc des Volcans, a dramatic range of volcanoes marking the borders between Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo. It was here that Dian Fossey made her name and you can trek to her grave in the shadow of the largest volcano, Karisimbi.

Having trekked for gorillas in Rwanda some five years ago, I opted this time to see the golden monkeys. The trekking is not nearly as intense, nor as long, as for gorillas but the hour spent with the monkeys is really magical as these small primates feed, groom and play in the trees. This is an excellent and more affordable trekking option, in place of a second gorilla trek.

“Those of you who have visited us at Lewa in recent years may well have remarked upon how dry, dusty and often windy it has been. For the past four years the long and short rains of April and November respectively, which provide the ‘lifeblood’ and energy for the Lewa ecosystem, have been unpredictable and inconsistent. In truly contrary fashion the weather has surprised us again, giving one of the wettest October / November seasons to date. Rivers, dams, springs are full; grass and woody vegetation is in abundance and the wildlife in splendid health! Lewa’s roads and other essential infrastructure however are looking slightly the worse for wear and the Conservancy’s Logistics team will no doubt have their work cut out once the rains have finished.

One of the enduring memories for 2011 will be the clear realization that the battle for survival of Kenya’s and ultimately Africa’s rhinoceros was truly joined and that the pressure being felt here on Lewa represents a microcosm of that being experienced in all other rhino conservancies, public and private across the country and elsewhere on the continent. At time of writing over 400 animals have been killed in South Africa, some with their horns taken whilst they are still alive, left for dead by well organized criminal syndicates who have diversified their activities into another ‘high value’ nefarious business. Kenya has been lucky not to be subject to pressure of this level but the slow attrition rate currently being experienced has the potential to accelerate, as demand for horn is driven by a market willing to pay massive sums to meet the unrelenting appetite for the purported medicinal properties.

We will continue to invest significant time, energy, funds and intellect into mitigating the threat to the Conservancy’s founding species. The battle however will certainly not be won in the field alone and engagement with partners to develop avenues for lobbying market countries in the Far East will be perpetuated as a focus of our efforts moving into next year.

In 2012 our strategic conservation focus will be twofold, firstly to drive the growth and strengthen the conservation commitment and connectivity in areas adjacent to Lewa which will begin early next year with support to Borana Conservancy, as they look to make habitat available to black rhino; a significant commitment in the current climate. Once Borana’s black rhino population is assessed as having stabilized we will move swiftly onto realizing a long held joint vision of amalgamating the two Conservancies.

Secondly we will drive an enhanced effort to support continued success of the community conservation vision, born here within Lewa over 15 years ago. The enduring and mutually beneficial partnership between Lewa and Northern Rangelands Trust is key to conservation success in northern Kenya and the proposed expansion of the current Lewa Education Program into a greater, regional entity is testament to the clear opportunities that exist between our two dynamic organizations.

We here at Lewa thank you all for your unwavering commitment and belief in the vision of Lewa and Northern Rangelands Trust and very much hope to see you in north Kenya during 2012.”

visit Lewa’s website here

Once again, instead of sending out Christmas cards we’ve taken the decision to donate to the MicroLoan Foundation who do so much to alleviate poverty in countries such as Malawi through the finance and development of businesses run by women.